Camping on a Koh Rok paradise...

Back on lanta, we returned the motorbike after a 14 day loan (I will miss my baby) and then went in search of accommodation in readiness for our return from our camping trip, which we would be leaving for the next day. We managed to book a rickety old beach bungalow down by Klong kong beach which would be much cheaper than our current digs, we would later find out why.

The next morning we were picked up and driven down to Kantiang bay where we boarded a good sized, private boat that would take us over to Koh Rok, a very small, uninhabited island to camp for the night. After wondering around phi phi yesterday slightly open-jawed at the lack of space, the prospect of a night on an island with only seven other people got us excited. The rest of the group was made up of fantastic people. An english couple from Gloucester, an Italian couple who run an ice-cream parlour and a finish couple who had been reunited via Facebook after being apart for 30 years, great story.

After a very choppy two hour crossing over to the island (dad, you may have acted like a dog who refuses to go for a walk and steadfastly sat on the sand), we arrived at an island you could only dream about, it was truly truly stunning. The most amazing beach we have ever seen, all with virtually no one around, bliss.

The day was spent, after a seafood lunch onboard, snorkelling amongst the crystal clear waters, each time better than the last. It was truly astonishing, due simply to the amount and variety of fish and coral. We did some good snorkelling on the Gili Islands, months ago, but this would top it, tenfold.

After a day in the water it was time to set up camp. Our tent, which was miraculously set up before we got there was, metaphorically speaking, the runt of the tent litter. Nevermind we thought, it's just one night! If lack of sleep wouldn't kill us the monitor lizards may! They were truly huge, about as long as a bicycle and as wide as a large tree trunk. Lets just hope the plastic tent material saves us from the dinosaur!

After throwing our bags inside we made a beeline for the hammocks that were next to the gently lapping sea. It was, in every way, like a scene from Robinson Crusoe. The hammocks meanwhile had both the look and feel of cheese wire, just to make sure you are snapped right back to reality if you dare to become immersed in your surroundings too much. Still, the seafood barbecue was truly immense. Freshly caught tuna and chicken massaman, enough for twenty people, meant that we were suitably nourished after a long day snorkelling! After dinner, we all sat around drinking Changs and sharing Thai rum before heading to the beach to light a fire and look at the stars, before making our way, in the dark, to our tents to try to sleep, even though it was around 30 degrees!

Although the island, in fact the whole trip was one of our trip highlights, this would be, quite possibly, our worst ever nights sleep. You hear a lot of people talk about bad nights sleep but I want to put this forward as our vote. It was so hot it made our bodies stick to the roll mat which meant that to counter the sweat we would have to don at least a t-shirt, which meant becoming even hotter. Added to this was invading ants the size of micro-machines, which, as we inspect a day later, seemed to have loved the taste of shells legs. Who wouldn't.

Still, the sight at 6am as we unzipped the tent will stay with us forever. Being only a few feet from the sea meant that we had an unobstructed view of the most amazing, clear sunrise over the emerald sea in front of us. I read these things back sometimes in fear of it sounding either like I am exaggerating or being too gushy. I can safely say that I am doing neither, it was that good.

After eating breakfast at 7am we were soon back on the boat and heading towards three more sites for more snorkelling adventures. Like yesterday's before it, as time progressed the sites got even better. Although, as we were the first boat on the island, we caught a very rare glimpse of a sea turtle, such a great sight. For around five hours we dived down into subtropical underworlds, underlining the fact that beneath the sea their is indeed a completely different world, just waiting to be explored. You can see why people who have recently gained their diving certificates, go on about it so much. You can see why it would become addictive.

So there we are then, after yet more fresh seafood cooked onboard by a Thai bloke with both the biggest, wildest hair and the widest smile, we were on our way back to the relative civilisation of Koh Lanta. The journey back went by quick enough, people scattered in a tired heep all around the boat. Some inside, some on the roof and some, like me, hanging off the side, trying to dangle feet in the water. Although wearing suncream, nothing could fight away both the heat and the strong sun, meaning a night spent in increasingly dizzy stages after way too much UV exposure!

For our last night on this amazing island we sorted our tickets for tomorrows all-day trip over to the east coast and Koh Samui. We actually sorted both travel and accommodation out in record time so decided to reward ourselves with a drink underneath arguably the most stunning sunset yet, due to the clear skies above. What a way to spend our last night not only on Lanta but our last night on Thailands andaman coast, we have been here a month!

So next up, the east and the triumvirate of Koh Samui, Phangan and Tao. We have eleven days now till our current visa runs out so will tour the east then make our way up to Bangkok for a final Thai hurrah amongst the chaos of another Asian metropolis.

We've (I've), banged on about koh lanta now for weeks but I cannot think of a place in the world that has had such a pull on me. Shell and I completely fell for the island and I encourage any of you who are thinking of taking a Thai holiday to give Phuket and Phi Phi a miss and stay on the boat for another couple of hours. You will not regret it...

Much love my lovelies, Tommo and shellface xxx

A very Thai New Year...

After nine days in the relaxing and homely surroundings of Baan rao. We were once again packing our bags in preparation to move on. Only difference being that this time we would only be moving to the next bay along, Klong kong, rather than hundreds of miles. We would have stayed at the truly special Baan Rao but unfortunately they were fully booked for the new year period but in the end it all worked out beautifully.

The previous days had been spent, in large parts due to the great weather, sat firmly on the beach. We decided a few days ago to try out Klong Nin, another beach further south, we would not be disappointed. Although we've been travelling for nearly four months it has taken up until now, in the ethereal surroundings of koh lanta, to truly feel at ease with our surroundings. For sure, we've had an incredible time so far on our trip wherever we have been, but being here for nearly two weeks now has cemented some firm friendships not to mention the mental reinvigoration that I think we were so looking forward to. It's a strange burden really, to personally feel as though you are carrying the weight of say, a toolbox, around in your head, it just gets so tiresome. For Shell, the stresses of modern teaching now seem a world away aand we can really start to relax.

Ofcourse, we both have to put this in a little context, we are on a Thai island afterall, but it feels in a lot of ways that our lives have been pretty much on hold for the past few years, creatively blocked by the need to save and sacrifice. I understand, in fact its pretty much guaranteed isn't it, that we will have to spend a large part of our lives saving in the future, but surely never to the extent as what we did to earn this. I'm not moaning here, as every sacrifice has been rewarded tenfold by the experience of this trip but the two years we spent saving, was a tad mentally draining.

So it is here, amongst new friends, new favourite bars and cafes and a profound new sense of optimism that we have felt that mental rejuvenation start to take shape. What were once hopes, ambitions and plans tinged with negativity now become tinged with positivity. For example, for years you have seen life and all it has to offer travelling in one straight, narrow line, everything linear in reality and ambition. This will happen at this point, then this will happen here because we are at this age now and so on and so forth...

Now, for the time being anyway, that narrow path has become a broad spectrum of possibility, a refreshing feeling that despite societal pressure and personal expectation, you can do anything and be anything you want to be. Now I know this is our blog, our travel blog, and your probably reading through this thinking 'what the hell does this have to do with koh lanta?', but I think this is important to understand as we worked hard to make this trip happen. For both of us, this trip is making our brains think and do good things, I hope you are pleased.

Anyway, after a few days putting the world and our lives into perspective, we glided into new years eve. Now for shell, bless her, Christmas was hard, it was always going to be. For me, new years eve was going to be my big test. After spending the past five years in European cities with our best friends, the fact we weren't going to be there made me sad, I hate missing out. I know we can't really complain but NYE has always and will continue to be my favourite night of the year and spending it with your best friends is phenomenal. This year though, would come a very close second.

After reading reports of a big storm heading our way right for NYE night, we were expecting a bit of a washout. Like everything we've experienced in Asia so far though, it turned up late.

We started the evening back at Baan Rao, eating some amazing homecooked Thai food and barbecued chicken cooked by the seriously impressive Chai. After a few hours and a few beers later, myself, shell, Klara and Andreas, our Swedish friends, went down to the beach to join in the beach parties. The sight of hundreds of fireworks and literally thousands of lanterns over the sea was a perfect spectacle to bring 2011 to a close. Shell's lantern, which was still in her hand as we approached midnight, slowly made it's way skyward, somehow, and I mean somehow, missing the fireworks by a matter of inches. It was like watching missiles being launched against a blimp, on the Gaza strip. We also, after spending around £8, managed to purchase quite possibly the worlds worst sparkling wine. Wine that tasted as if it had been produced using dead rats.

It was a great night and even better that we could spend it with Andreas and Klara, a truly fantastic couple that I am certain we will be visiting in Stockholm in the not too distant future.

So there you have it, 2011 was a great year, one that couldn't come soon enough. We saved like madmen, quit jobs, moved out of a great flat, got engaged and flew to the otherside of the world in search of great experiences. 2012 has a lot to live up to.....

Peace and love for 2012, Tommo and shellface xxx

Revelling in Koh Lanta's laid-back festivities...

We've been on this magical island now for a week and I think we can both safely say that we are in no rush yet to leave. By using this unique, characterful and laid back island as a base we plan to explore as much of the Southern Thailand beaches as is possible whilst all the time maintaining and in a lot of ways extending our relationship with the island.

After three months of constantly being on the move our week on this island has already come as a bit of a blessing. From talking to some of our Swedish friends it confirms that feeling that staying somewhere for a while, I.e for a few weeks, can help to build a connection rather than create a feeling of being too comfortable, of wanting to move on. it's a fascinating prospect that we will leave here with some great friends, which is something I hope will continue.

Anyway, Christmas eve. Aruna and chai, very popular figures on the island it seems, were hosting a party at the hotel, which was great given the fact that we had this huge party with amazing food and a great sound-system just outside our room. All we had to do was bring alcohol so being the good Brits we are (with a hint of homesickness) we wheeled out the gin and tonics. Added to this, and not to be outdone by any of other guys cooking dishes, I managed to cook my popular (with shell anyway) tuna fishcakes. I had a hankering to do something quintessentially British, like a big Beef Wellington but hey, this is a Thai island!

In the morning we headed for the biggest town on the island, Saladan and acquired the right ingredients from a few of the local Market stalls (potatoes, red chillies, coriander, tuna) and of course the gin, and London gin at that!

after the Market we had just enough time to fit in a spot of lunch at a wicked little place called Peak cafe run by two Thai sisters in the next bay who after chatting about their place for a while turned out they would be attending the same party later on.

Back at Baan Rao we got straight down to cooking (and drinking) before the rest of the guests turned up. It was an amazing feeling to be back in the kitchen and something (in fact the only thing) I am looking forward to doing when we get home (apart from seeing friends and family of course!). The fishcakes turned out beautifully and when presented to the first few guests were gone within minutes, I even hung around people eating them way too much to gage their reaction, like some demented weirdo.

After showering, we had our first gin and tonics and started to mix with the other guests. It was a cool mix of people with a few of them owning bars on Lanta and Phi-Phi. The others were made up of their friends (who all seemed to be connected by working in, at or for music festivals in the UK) and Baan Rso guests including Lotte and Andreas and Klara, a wicked Swedish couple. We all had a great time and the food was great. We ended the evening laid out on cushions on the terrace looking up at the stairs at 3am. Sounds like on of those cliched things to do but given Lanta's lack of light pollution, makes for great night skies.

One of the odd things we have found with spending time with all these Scandinavians is the way they seem to celebrate Christmas on Christmas eve which is odd, given the fact that it is the day before Christmas day, Hence the name! The advantage is that when it came around to the morning we had a whole other day to celebrate!

Waking then on the big day we Rose like zombied bodies out into the heat of the day to at least give a helping hand to the big clean up. After soaking a few plates we retreated back inside where Aruna had prepared a huge Christmas brunch consisting of various salads, Indian scrambled eggs and homecooked bread, all with a very Swedish twist, which was great for the Swedish family and Andreas and Karla. In all honestly it was delicious, much needed after a heavy night!

From there we headed to the beach sporting our whacky Christmas hats and tinsel, all to the amusement of the bemused locals. It was a very strange feeling, unsurprisingly it didn't feel like the big day at all. It feels almost as if summer 2011 never ended and that we have somehow found a tropical piece of say, Devon, and that it's had a record-breaking Indian summer. For Shell, it was hard, I could tell throughout the whole period. For a girl so desperately family-orientated as shell, this time was always going to be hard. But hey, we got through it and we had a great time. Christmas day was strange and ended up being pretty quiet but the whole experience just lacked family and friends, something which, as we progress into the New Year celebrations will be particularly hard.

We have been lucky enough though to make some great friends here and so the next day we hopped on the motorbike and met up with Andreas and Karla, a few miles down the coast so we could visit the national park together. On the way we all stopped at some truly breathtaking locations, places that wouldn't look out of place in a bounty advert.

After paying the entrance fee we headed into the park where we were instantly surrounded by monkeys. Added to this was the wind, which was so strong by this point, didn't make great reading for tomorrows boat trip!

We decided to take the trek around the park that would climb some very steep hills through thick, dense jungle, to some indeterminate location around the headland. At about the halfway point and literally dripping with sweat we came across a very large tree that had recently toppled over onto the path causing quite obviously, a large obstruction that would need to be scaled. Sure enough myself and Andreas climbed over because let's face it, we needed to let the girls know that we were indeed alpha males! Shell went next, she hooked her leg over so that she was straddling the very large tree and grabbed on to myself. All she needed to do next was kick her leg over, a process that seemed pretty straightforward, 'seemed', Shell then proceeded to freeze as she rolled herself over the log. I don't know if any of you have tried but if you blow into the face of a rabbit it becomes completely frozen, this would be Shell. Like a beetle on it's back shell retained the straddle position until she was on the floor facing upwards. If anything is needed to firmly cement a friendship then it is definitely mimicking a stunned beetle.

Anyway, the guidebook apparently said this 'trek' would last two hours but after about 30 mins the track suddenly came across a road, it had ended! So much for the Indiana jones expedition!

Anyway, after taking some posing photos around the lighthouse (see above) we headed back along the road to a beach we had found earlier. We holed ourselves up in a bar in the sun on cushions and mats and spoke for hours about the differences between Sweden and the UK, which coincidentally are few and far between. It's easy, I suppose, living in the UK to firmly believe that the social problems we face i.e how to control immigration, a disaffected youth, banking crises and astronomical housing prices are purely British problems. If we can take anything away from this trip it would be the realisation that the worries we face at home are felt almost everywhere else. I think it helps me anyway.

After a few hours in the sun drinking a few beers we headed off in pursuit of food so travelled a good 10kms up the coast to a place Andreas and Klara had stayed a week ago, right on the beach. We had a good night talking about our families and friends before being completely drowned out by a compilation tape, seemingly recorded by my dad featuring Dire Straits, Queen and Genesis. It will be the first and last time I am drowned out by Money for Nothing...

After an early night we were picked up early to be taken to the pier for our 5 island tour to the south. The day was just incredible. At three of the islands we stopped and jumped off the back of the boat to go snorkelling amidst a technicolor of tropical fish. The snorkelling was just fantastic, not quite as clear as the Gili islands but more abundant in fish. The only problem was that we felt as if we were being burned, especially on our legs. Turns out that jelly fish release tiny fragments of tentacle that still manage to sting. Which means these pathetic excuses for organisms not only have no meaning but they carry on having no meaning once they are disconnected from the stupid creatures. Jellyfish and wasps, the scourge of society, maybe ones that have been backed by David Cameron. Pathetic beasts.

The highlight of the day, despite an amazing buffet lunch of chicken curry, was the emerald cave. The boat actually moored up to an island that seemingly had no way in. We were then told to don lifejackets and swim behind the leader into a small gap in the rock. We swam for around 80 metres through a cave that seemed to be glowing from below in the most spectacular green you can imagine. The cave passage then went completely dark, save that of the leaders dim torchlight. After 15 minutes we reached daylight at the opposite end and swam out into a secluded beach and astonishing emerald waters, flanked by rock and vines on all sides. It's a place, apparently, where pirates used to hide their treasure. It was astonishing, even more astonishing that someone had found it.

It was a remarkable day and gave us a tantalising glimpse of what to expect on our two-day camping trip on a tiny island called Koh Rok, a completely uninhabited island to the west. All that to come as we progress into 2012

Anyway, we did a lot over this time so sorry for the length but whenever you see Shell turn instantaneously into a beetle and a cave you couldn't even imagine, they have to be told. Now, go grab yourself a chocolate digestive, make yourself a brew and have piece of mind that everything is going to be OK.

Hope you all had a fantastic Christmas, Tommo and shellface xxx

The promised land of Koh Lanta...

After our previous days experiences we were now itching to get to koh lanta, an island around 80kms to the south that would take around four hours to get to. Onboard we met a lovely girl called Sam who was travelling alone who we spoke to whilst we set up camp on the bow of the boat to take in the scorching sun and the ridiculously impressive views of Railay beach to our right and Ko Phi Phi to our left. The water was incredibly calm as we sailed on towards the fast approaching Koh Lanta, both looking and feeling like a mirage before us. Almost like a mythical promise land we had been told about but would never be able to reach. All of this with the absolutely perfect soundtrack of Belle and Sebastien coming through our shared earphones.

Arriving at Saladan pier we were greeted by a smiling tuk-tuk driver that held up a chalkboard with 'Tom and fiance' written on in large letters. Shell, understandably wasn't happy with this demotion to a side-note...

Arriving at Baan Rao, our home for the next nine days, we were simply astonished at the location. Although up a relatively steep hill, the views were simply breathtaking. To make things even better, our hosts Aruna and Chaii, were astonishingly friendly. Almost like visiting your favourite aunty and uncle, maybe the ones that had spent their lives doing cool things. Added to this they gave a gorgeous 1 year old boy called Shaan and a loveable rogue of a dog called Sita. From our enormous room we had both a balcony and hammock and just incredible sea views. Again, don't want to get all gushy here but on an emotional level, I could not think of anywhere as perfect. To spend Christmas here is going to be staggering, Aruna is hosting a big party on Christmas eve which I have promised to cook something more, maybe shell could now! we are also having a big brunch on Christmas day. I think we are planning on hitting the crowded Ko Phi Phi on Boxing day.

Anyway, after an incredible Thai meal the night before we headed out in the morning firstly to hire a motorbike for the next ten days. We then rode almost the entire west coast of the island before hitting Kantiang Bay, a perfect arch of beach surrounded by the islands only five star resort. We then visited a place called Drunken Sailor, a place we were recommended to visit and we would not be disappointed in any way. Hands down the best place for food, drink, price, music and feel we have found yet. Just a place where all you want to do is replicate it back home!! If you ever go to Lanta, go here!!

That night back at Baan Rao we were joined by a girl called Lotte, who I spoke to for a while swapping travel tails. After a while it turned out that this girl is quite famous, I mean neither one of us has heard of her but apparently she plays the lead part in a TV series called The Borgias, apparently it's massive in the States. Turns out she had screen sex with Jeremy Irons in most episodes, quite a claim to fame that. Even so, fame certainly hasn't turned her into a nob, she is in fact an incredibly nice girl. I just want old Jezza Irons' autograph, maybe on a photo of him from Die Hard with a Vengeance...

That night we ate at a place called country Lao, a place highly reccomended by Aruna and Chaii. As we had been talking for hours with Lotte and Aruna we had lost track of time and didn't make our way down the hill till nine and as we got there we were the last punters of the evening, this didn't make us feel any less welcomed. The place was completely family run and quite famous island-wide for their barbecued chicken. We duly ordered it, whilst shell opted for barbecued sateh. As we were the last guys in there (actually apart from the worlds most miserable man) they cooked us, I'm not exaggerating here (I never exaggerate), the rest of the meat left over from the day which meant I had to plough seemingly, through an entire chicken. On the plus side, it was absolutely phenomenal, and well worth the high regard in which it is known locally. I think it is all in the tamarind dip. Another to add to the list...

The next morning we rose early to be met by clear blue skies and a sparkling sea in the background so I rustled us up some omelettes and coffee and we sat taking in our surroundings whilst Shaan, Aruna and chaii's boy, did his best to shatter our ear drums!

Before we headed off Lotte asked if she could nip and fetch a bike so I gave her a ride down to the town where she duly rented one but had never driven a bike before. Already shitting myself by the prospect of a Hollywood compensation claim if she were to fall of my bike and smash her face I explained carefully what she needed to do before following her back up the steep dirt track to Baan Rao. I needn't have worried, she was a a natural. I guess, given her day job, some people just find things easy. Which wouldn't be me, I couldn't open a packet of crisps yesterday.

Anyway, sitting here on the beach, we are completely in love with this island already. It is peak season here, in fact everywhere is peak season. Not that you would notice here. What an amazing place this is going to be to spend Christmas and New Year. No presents though, boo!!!!

Much love, my pedigree chums, Tommo and shellface xxx

Island hopping, airports and visa stamps...

Our last full day in ao nang was spent island hopping around five islands to the north west of the area. We actually travelled for about 40kns on the motorbike, all behind Gerhard in his 4x4, until at last we reached the pier, a full hour later with very numb bums.

In the boat with us were only three other people, Annie from Seattle and a really friendly couple from Madrid. First up was Hong island, a beautiful island that had a secluded bay, a picture postcard Image of beauty. Although incredibly busy lending to the time of year, it was a beautiful place. Before we left that morning, Gerhard had given us a plastic bag with old chopped up banana, skin on, which we thought was slightly odd. Maybe an attempt at that whacky German 'humour'. Ironically, there is no word in German to describe sense of humour or small talk for that matter, which kind of makes sense when you meet Gerhard. Lovely but slightly robotic. Anyway bananas. We were slightly confused as to why we had been given these, maybe a snack in desperate measures if we were to be washed up on the beach? When we got to the beach, all would become clear. Hundreds of tropical fish had congregated to the right of the beach and were surrounding a group of people who were feeding them bananas, bread and beef burgers, all to the delight of the hungry and bloated fish. An awesome sight, even if they did take a good nibble out of shells legs, not that they'd get much!

From there we sailed around four more islands, all uninhabited until we reached the last one. We sailed in under a very low natural arch and into a narrow passage that had been carved through the islet. We were the only ones there and even a whisper echoed dramatically through the rocks. The scene was almost recognisable, like you'd seen it already in apocalypse now.

Back on dry land, we notched up the miles again on the return journey before riding down past the hotel and into ao nang to catch the sunset. In the end we missed it by about an hour but settled for buying yet more takeaway pizzas and beer (we aren't beasts-we promise!) and sitting on the beach. As we sat there, hundreds of lanterns were being let off around us whilst a guy at the other end of the beach played with his fire poi. To make things better, we had the iPhone speakers so spent ages passing the iPhone to each other after each song. Naturally, shell chose mostly Florence and the machine and I, The Smiths. Just so you know. Im trying to set the scene here! Pure perfection though, needed before what the next two days would bring.

The next morning we were picked up early for our three hour drive to Phuket airport for the incredibly annoying visa run, something we had been dreading for a while, more because we are stupid and passed up the opportunity to buy Thai visa outside of Thailand in any of the eight countries prior to this! We actually got to the airport at 2pm and with the flight to Kuala Lumpur not till 10pm, we had time to kill. After a brief bicker I convinced shell to follow me out of the airport (down the main concourse!) in pursuit of beach. Although we were both in foul moods given this stupid visa run, we found a killer piece of deserted beach, even here on brash Phuket, we had stumbled upon a stretch of sand, maybe 2 miles long, that had not a soul on it. We stayed there for a few hours after pleading with a woman who tried to charge us 200 baht for entering a 'national park', and succeeding. I think they saw my forehead veins.

The flight over was fine enough, we had managed to track down a small place selling brandy shots so decided to create a new mix of latte-brandy for our non sleepathon. Entering KL, we settled down in Starbucks for the night, safe in the knowledge that our next flight wasn't for another seven hours....

The flight back was fine up until we came into land, ten metres away from the runway. At that point the plane, with wheels almost touching the ground, suddenly thrust upwards as if taking off. A clearly shaken captain immediately came on the speaker to explain that air-traffic control had instructed him to abandon the landing as winds were blowing the plane viciously downwards. Now, I am a terrible flyer but to turn around to see shells panic stricken face nearly sent me over the edge, as did the deathly silence that had gripped the clearly shaken passengers. I suppose we would be very lucky to have all of our flights pass without incident this year but I hope to god that I will never feel fear in the way that I did for those brief moments again.

Anyway, the big reason for this annoying trip was yet to come, the immigration stamp for another thirty days. As the queue got shorter our anxiety stepped up a good five notches. Reaching the desk I think I may have had the appearance of an international drug smuggler. We had been frought with worry as we had only left Thailand a few hours earlier plus our original stamp didn't actually expire until the 26th. With this in mind, with the previous 24 hours firmly in mind, he couldn't have made me sweat more if he had tried. He stared at me, the clock above me, the rules and regulations behind him and then finally to the guy to his right. He knew what I wanted but he just had to make me sweat. He knew he was, in relation to our small world anyway, in complete control, and he was clearly milking his elevated position. After literally five minutes of severe procrastination he stamped the metal contraption down onto my increasingly filled passport. The sound was beautiful. Shell soon followed and we must have looked even more suspicious as we whooped and high-fived as we skipped out of the airport. Done and dusted...not exactly. After negotiating a fare to the harbour it dawned on us that another six hours awaited us for the next ferry back to Krabi. This time with no beach near us, just hoards and hoards of teenage Brits cramming themselves onto undersized boats to take them to ko phi-phi.

Eight hours later we were back in ao nang and lying on the beach, almost dead to the world through both sleep deprivation and emotional turmoil. Still...done and dusted, and despite the overall grubbiness, we were ecstatic, another uninterrupted thirty days in paradise. Bring on Christmas on Koh Lanta!!

Much love comrades, Tommo xxx

You know what, just Phuket...

So after nine mixed days of relaxing in the bohemian surroundings of chiang mai, we hopped on a plane (our first taste of air Asia!), and headed to the land of the package holiday, Phuket.

Having already blogged twice about Ching mai, I will just tell you about our third cooking course in as many countries.

From Claire and vito's advice, the cooking classes in chiang mai were very much on our list of things to do after glowing reports from them. Plus after completing cooking classes in both Bali and Cambodia we were interested to see the variations in technique, plus you always get a load to eat so it makes for quite a cheap day! The course set-up itself was fantastic, you chose six dishes from six different categories. Shell opted for green curry paste, green chicken curry, papaya salad, hot and sour prawn soup, pad Thai and deep fried bananas. To mix things up (and keep us apart) I went for penang paste, red Penang pork curry, fish cakes, chicken in coconut soup, stir fried prawns in curry powder and mango and sticky rice. We had a really good day, our group was really nice (me and seven English girls!) and the cooking school was big enough to incorporate all students with a cooking station each. The cooking techniques were pretty self-explanatory to the point where our shell has promised an exact replica of her Pad Thai, once we are back home. The anticipation will kill, not least to see shell in the kitchen!

So for all of you who read this and have had the pleasure of being cooked for by us, we now have the experience of three different national cuisines behind us to practice on you once we are yet again, back home. Which in itself seems like some mysterious place we used to live, although its only been three months.

The day of the cooking course was actually our last day in chiang mai and thankfully was the first day that I seemed to have conquered some of the pain, albeit with help from mr tramadol. Lovely man.

So saying farewell to the guys at the guesthouse the next day we caught a tuk-tuk to the airport to catch our midday flight down to Phuket. The flight, although agonising again for me, was another smooth one. The time seemed to fly by, literally, until we landed, fifteen minutes early, in a hot and humid Phuket. Seemingly, with the rest of Thailand, and Europe, and Russia. And maybe Australia. In fact, let's face it, it felt as though the world had descended on Phuket for their Christmas package jaunts, just as we made our way down from tranquil chiang mai, backpacks in hand.

Outside the airport we hopped onto a minibus as the taxi's were criminally expensive, apparently because they belong to the well-known Phuket taxi mafia. The guide books and internet warn you, we were even warned by a hotel owner of a place we booked for Christmas on ko lanta that these guys, especially in peak season which we are now in, are allowed to charge extortionate prices which people, if they need to hire a taxi, have no choice but to accept. Not that the mini bus faired any better. Again, crammed about as full as is humanly possible, we swung down the west coast of Phuket island, dropping people intermittently, most in the truly horrific patong. Thing is, these drivers were so thick that they just looked at my address and nodded, in one of those 'I know this place better than a monopoly board, stop bothering me with your silly piece of printed paper'. Naturally, when we got to Karon beach, then proceeded to pass through it, I had to remonstrate yet again to get the bloke to stop and turn around, he was lost. Winding up back in Karon, he proceeded to wind down his window and ask, no lies here, probably ten people for directions. Until amazingly we crawled past our guesthouse where we shouted at him to get us off the damn bus. A journey that should have taken 45 mins took two and a half hours.

The guesthouse itself was ok but the most expensive place we have had so far. Depressingly, this is pretty much the lowest you should expect to pay at this time of year, all this for a room full of mosquitoes!

On the plus side we have sorted our place for Christmas, a place called baan rao on an island called koh lanta. We managed, amazingly, to get the last place in this b&b for £20 a night. It's at the top of our budget but it's Christmas, so you have to expect to pay prices such as this I suppose. The place is at the top of a hill but it's just up from the beach, with views over the sea and our own balcony with hammock! I can't think of a better way to spend Christmas away from home. From the emails that we have received from the owners, it seems we could well have landed on our feet in a place that actually wants to get to know us, rather than just being another guest.

Anyway back to karon beach. The reason we chose this place was that it wasn't Patong, a place we passed through that confirmed all of our predispositions about it. Truly awful. Instead, we chose karon beach, a little further around the coast and a place we thought, foolishly, that might have more of a cool backpacker vibe, nothing rowdy that you might get on nearby phi phi but a scene nonetheless. Instead what you are faced with is Blackpool. I've got nothing against Blackpool but it doesn't exactly fade into the background. I'm not moaning because the beach is beautiful, but that is obviously only one part of the town and well, their are other people on the beach. I don't quite know how we keep managing to do this but it is full of Russians, I mean absolutely packed. So much so that menus are written in Russian and much like Benidorm, or Blackpool on a warm day (thinking about it-or cold), bald fat blokes walk around in football shirts, but unlike Benidorm these are Spartak Moscow and not Leeds United.

The place is also packed to the rafters with restaurants selling crap food for expensive prices where poor quality, tacky western imitations outnumber traditional Thai twenty to one. In fact we struggled to find anything resembling good thai food at all.

Anyway, this is our second full day on the beach here today and we have no real complaints. How can we! It would be a travesty if we did! The beach is beautiful, pure White sand and crystal blue waters, we've spent the days eating fruit from the local stall, bloody amazing pineapple! We've also got to grips with our foot badminton! Something we bought in vietnam after witnessing the local population playing it everywhere!

We will have another day here tomorrow amongst the Cossacks then make our way over to Krabi on Monday where we have booked ourselves into a wicked place that is inland a little bit but that is central to Railay beach, Ao nang and Krabi town. It's even got a pool!

So, now were off to find Christmas hats, we may even steal some tinsel to put on our rucksacks!

Mui amore, Tommo xxx