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Saturday 17 December 2011

Sun, storms and scooters in Ao Nang...


The past few days have been some of the best we have had yet on our trip. Despite some mixed weather the surrounding area just offers so much. If you can get your hands on a motorbike it becomes even better....

For the past five days we have hired out one of the hotels motorbikes to really get to grips with what this stunning area has to offer. Wednesday morning we rose early enough and headed away from the hotel and towards town, stopping at a place called U&P's bakery, a place we have now eaten at for the past four mornings. Quite surprisingly we have managed to find some phenomenal places for breakfast so far in this trip but this has to be up there with the best of them. I know there are more important things going on in the world right now but this place has food to die for, freshly baked bread of about a hundred different kinds, fantastic choice and above all, the nicest croissants I have ever eaten, simple as that. I don't want to keep eulogising about food all the time but we just keep stumbling upon these places out of coincidence. It's 2 miles outside of town!

Anyway, in town we bought tickets to take the longtail boat round to West Railay beach, a journey that took about twenty minutes. Much much closer than I thought it was going to be. As we approached the beach it became increasingly apparent that this place was special. Understandably, given the time of year, we had to share the beach with a crowd of other people but in comparison to Phuket was inhabited by Tom Hanks Castaway types. We jumped off the boat, planted down our throws at the quieter end of the beach and walked towards the opposite side of the beach to watch the weathered rock-climbers dangling by their finger-tips. I did quite a lot of rock climbing before I came away and although enjoyable I just haven't got the patience to stand around waiting or the inclination to carry rope and metal around with me, which these lads obviously do. It's as if you want to shout up to them, "lads, just come down and have a Chang and chill out, this place is beautiful!". Looked as though they were happy enough though!

We wandered around the beach, mesmerised by the location and the scene before us. If you could conjure up the perfect beach scene in your head, go on have a go, maybe apart from Claire and Vit (that would be cheating). You done it yet? Well that is how I can explain it, crystal clear water, a perfect stretch of sand, surrounded by karsts that pop out of the water and boat-shops selling fruit smoothies. It's hard to compare these places but I think shell agrees that it's our favourite beach to date, cannot wait to go back...

Back in Ao Nang and off the boat we made the easy decision to go and buy beer and pizza and sit on the beach to watch the sunset. Such a good decision. I feel a bit like Michael Palin sometimes, getting all gushy, but this will stay with us forever. Another perfect sunset as the sun dips behind a tropical island, drinking a couple of beers, safe in the knowledge that it feels as if this will last forever. Ofcourse it won't, but hey, you gotta make the most of these situations whilst your here....

The next morning and with the threat of storms hanging in the air, we decided to drive the 45kms to a national park to visit To Souy waterfalls. I think if we knew how far and how long this would actually take I think we may reconsidered but I just love riding that bike. I think due to the fact I have always had this aversion to being in control of moving vehicles I have loved every minute of this new found love. Such a liberating experience. I think for shello too, being driven around is something she is definitely getting used to! Although I think Shell's obligatory passenger map reading skills may take a little while yet to come around...bless her. Still, i'm sure she'll be writing similar things as I get us lost for a week in the middle of New Zealand....

Anyway, the waterfalls themselves were fantastic, not quite as impressive or majestic as the ones we visited near Luang Prabang but the lack of anyone around definitely made up for it. Despite wearing nothing but flip-flops we made it to the top where I headed straight underneath for an invigorating splash around. Such an amazing feeling. I think Shell took some photos so you can see on there. On the way down a beautiful orange butterfly attached itself to Shell and would not let go meaning Shell had to literally pull the thing off of her. So strange.

On the way back (another 50kms), the heavens opened. It absolutely thrashed it down so we pulled in and put on two identical yellow ponchos that we found in the scooter. As we pulled off in the soaking rain and onto the highway what people must have thought as two day-glow figures came hurtling down the road dressed, seemingly, like two giant condoms.

Back at the hotel we dried off before heading back out for food, not before checking the weather report though.

The next morning we woke to grey leaden skies and drizzle. We knew it was coming so didn't plan anything the day before other than swanning around and drinking coffee so we made our way into town. I can't say we did an awful lot. We sat on the beach in the early afternoon, walking round to see the monkey island, a place that is, unsurprisingly populated by wild, aggressive monkeys. It warns you not to feed them and let's face it, you would be an absolute fool to do so. Sure enough, some people dud approach the wild beasts and sure enough, they nearly had their faces torn off. I dont want to get the animal rights bloggers on to me but if a monkey jumped on me , I would throw it in the sea.

For the next couple of hours we sat under a tree on the beach, like a couple of hobos, maybe just lacking the Special Brew. From there we went for a quick coffee that we swore had been spiked with something stronger and then stormed the roads all the way back to the hotel. On the way back we did what any true Brits would do on a rainy day and bought a lot of beer and played scrabble.....rock and roll...

So tomorrow we go island hopping around five deserted islands on s small speedboat which should be a cool day. The following day we have to drive to Phuket airport where will be flying to Kuala Lumpur late that evening, spending 5 hours skidding around the shiny airport floors, then flying back to Phuket. All to get another stamp to stay in Thailand another thirty days....

Anyway, Christmas in a week and in a way, apart from Shell making us buy a small tree, hats and tinsel, Christmas is another year away! I know Shell loves Christmas but in a way, we are on one long summer! How can it be Christmas!! Anyway.....Merry Christmas!! Ho ho ho.

Much love...and seasons greetings, Tommo & Shell xxxx

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