So after yet another morning of having to get up with the Vietnamese (6am-they don't mess around!), we boarded the bus that had pulled up outside the hotel in preperation for the 4 hour journey south to the small, ancient town of Hoi An, a journey of 250kms. After finding out that we were yet again on the same bus as at least four other couples who we had met at other times in Vietnam we were on our way. After an hour or so of passing through increasingly rural backdrops it dauned on you that this area was a prime target for US air strikes that did so much to devestate a rich and fertile land, not that the people living around this area make a decent living off the land. On the road towards Danang, the biggest city in the area, you come across the desperation of some of the local population. As cars hurtle past they run as fast as they can to try and make at least a small sale. All they seem to be holding, these girls who must have been in their twenties, was a small collection of small skinned, lifeless chickens. The look on one woman's face as it became increasingly obvious that her neighbour had miraculously managed to wave down a car was heartbreaking. This isn't poverty at it's most destitute and detructive, they still have a roof over their heads and clothes on their bodies, just a desperate attempt to sell at least something that will provide at least some sustenance. The problem is with Vietnam, after being a here a very short while, is that people are absolutely desperate to throw off the shackles of poverty, to become as wealthy as possible. The problem is that if all the population have the same aspiration then they become less genuine as a result. The people, almost as much as in China, seem to be losing common sense, the ability to see clearly. Instead their unblinkered aspiration of wealth just creates problems. The evidence of which can be seen everywhere.
Anyway after being dropped off at the hotel we dropped down our bags and headed straight back out to check out the town. Before we got to the old town, an UNESCO world heritage sight, we ate at a fantastic little place called Streets cafe. This place, run by a serious-ish New Yorker who told us all about tightly woven rice paper (great conversation actually) is an absolute gem. It finances disadvantaged young people to become great chefs and waitresses which in turn means young people who try as hard as possible to create an astonishing eating and dining experience, all for the cost of a pint. Shell had a crispy pancake filled with pork and shrimps which came with coriander and lettuce and several rice papers for you to roll your own fresh spring rolls. I had Cau Lau, the local Hoi An speciality. It consists of big doughy noodles, thick slices of pork, greens, chillies and a great sauce in the bottom for you to mix around. It also had amazing croutons made out of crackling. Just incredible.
Walking around the old town two things came to mind. One, this was definitely the hottest we had been yet, we felt as if we were melting! Secondly, the abundance of tailor shops. Now Hoi An is famous for it's tailoring, that you can understand, but when faced with the choice of over 400 different ones it becomes just a slightly weird. How anyone could pick and choose between this lot is a mystery to me. We discussed the possibility of having some clothes made, in fact we sat with a couple of women and discussed our options but in the end we just couldn't think far enough ahead to be thinking about having suits, wintercoats and shoes made. It just didn't make any sense at this point in our trip. I'm sure we'll regret it one day but then hey, it's clothes, just things. Things we can without. Materialism helps nothing.
On the way back to the hostel we sat and had a beer in the delight that at 10p each, we had found our cheapest ever drinks, and they were brutally cold and delicious. Utter perfection. In fact this is how it would play out for the next few days, eating and drinking way too much, in increasingly beautiful restaurants but never paying more than the price of one appetiser back home, for the entire meal!
The next day we hired bicycles from the lady across the road and headed towards the beach, 4 kms away. On the way we passed yet more stunning scenery until we were whistled at by a man in a large pointy hat to pull over and pay another bloke who took our bikes and put them in a large cowshed, for safekeeping. Finally at the beach we were both pretty amazed at the sight before us, masses of white sand, gloriously warm sea combined with a perfect sea breeze. We knew Vietnam had beaches but we didn't know they came as pretty as this! We stayed there the whole day, I even managed to get in my first run of our trip as I ran hard down the beach towards Danang and China Beach, the spot where American GI's had there R&R time during the war. On the way back I literally ran into a group of fisherman pushing their boats into the water, I offered to help but I think they took one look at at my perspiring body and thought they'd better stay clear of this madman, sweating beer.
After a good few hours we cycled the way back, not before stopping at a place called Dingoes Deli for coffee and cake. Like a mirage appearing in the middle of a hot desert, the place came completely out of the blue, prteyy much in the midst of rice paddies and a few roadside shacks selling seccond-hand aftersun (seriosly). The menu was full of mouth-watering options for lunch so we decided to come back the following day.
That night we opted for a place highly recomended all around that went by the name of Miss Ly's. After hearing about a taster menu they do there we both thought it would be foolish to miss out on our first ever taster menu so we decided to treat ourselves and go for it. Five courses of delicious Vietnamese and local specialities such as the White Rose, a delicately steamed rice paper and crispy fried wantons stuffed with pork with tomato and shrimp salsa on top. I've said it once already but I will say it again, the food here is mindblowing.
The next morning we woke up fine but were to be irritated for most of the day by the guy on reception in our hostel. After asking to move rooms to a cheaper one to save a little bit of money he seemed to find everything so funny. Although you can't ask everyone to understand how saving a few dollars a night is extremely important to us, you can try your hardest not to be a twat and laugh at these cheap little foreigners. He even had the audacity to talk to me then start smirking and turn around to his little Viet mong and start talking so that we couldn't understand whilst blatantly talking about us, in front of our faces. Now we have met some amazing Vietnamese during our time here but he is not one of them. It's Ok though, because he both looks and sounds like a mix between a Vietnamese Alan Carr and a school prefect.
After hiring bikes again from the very exciteable woman opposite the hotel (I think she likes us, someone has to!) we biked it down to the beach even though the weather wasn't as great as the previous day. As time passed the weather gradually improved until it was once again, blisteringly hot. By this time a large group from some indeterminate Eastern European country came and jumped into the sea despite the fact the red flags were out. We both laughed as we couldn't help but notice their strange choice of swimwear, all tight multicoloured speedo's and brown thongs. Stereotypes, sometimes, really do ring true.
Stopping once again at Dingoes Deli we ordered sandwiches, as we craved western style food for the first time in a while. I ordered a sandwich that came with at least ten different ingredients in! All this food and drink got us talking about how we've not had a bad meal in all of our time in Hoi An, well in Vietnam for that matter. If food is your your love then Hoi An is definitely your heaven...
The next morning at breakfast a spider the size of a small boy ran under our table, it literally looked like something out of Alien and for the next ten minutes after it made it's dash to the outside, I was shaking. But then so was Shell. We've had lizards, cockroaches, ants and birds in our rooms so far and we have been fine but spiders are a different matter. And before you all start saying things like 'wait till you get to Australia' or along those lines, I was there and I've seen the buggers, they are huge and deadly. This one though was the biggest I have ever seen and it had the purpose of a mental patient.
Outside the weather was appaling, real Monsoon conditions that didn't show any signs whatsoever of letting up as we made the 50kms or so to My Son, pronounced Mee Sun, Vietnam's prized archeological sight. Compared, quite unfairly (according to the guide) to Angor Wat, it is a huge complex of ancient ruins dating as far back as the 4th Century AD. Unlike Angor Wat though, My Son is very much in ruin. Apparently used a base by the Viet Cong during the war, the Americans sent in the bombers and obliterated about 85% of it, in typical 'precise' fashion. Even so, the building work was so consistently good that much still remained, including three enclosed temples. Despite the continous bombardment of rain and the increasing crowds all trying to take the same photos, it was an interesting morning, well worth the £1.80 entrance fee. Shell seemed to really enjoy snapping away, I however stood on the sidelines feeling grumpy not so much with the rain but with the irritating tourists. I just couldn't help but feel that everyone tries so hard to take these 'perfect' photos that they miss 50% of what is in front of them. It's such a shame!
Still, we are having an absolute blinding time, Vietnam is beautiful. Hoi An has given us so much in such a small amount of time. It has a great beach, amazing restaurants, an old-town of UNESCO status with a river running through it and the cheapest beer I have ever seen. Go, you will not regret it.....
Much love, Tommo xxxxx
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